Recommendations on Concealed Carry Guns.

What matters in concealed carry is reliability, easy use, size, and weight.
In 380, I can only suggest the Taurus 738, SIG 230, Bersa, and Rohrbaugh.
I would not choose 9x19 for common cc. It's much more power, with downsides.
For leo backup: 9x19 fmj (Rohrbaugh R9, Kahr PM9; not the unsafe Glocks.)

The Rohrbaugh R380 is $1200, but I might spend that, particularly if you don't want to correct problems or return a gun for service. It shoots; it's small; it's light.

The T738 is a good compromise. It shoots; it's small; it's light; for $400.
The Kahr PM9 if you can handle a 9x19 in a pocket gun (recoil; racking; noise).
The PK380 is for weaker hands, but it's still a work in progress.
It's bigger, but only 22oz loaded with 8 rounds. Anyone can rack it; under $400.
Since the 380 is not powerful, the PK380 longer barrel helps velocity/stability.

I use Federal 380 95gr fmj for more a bit more energy to penetrate coats, glass, bone, etc. Sig 230 is better than the Sig 232 for reliability.
A double/single action small revolver is the best for reliability, but they are wider and often heavier, and side blast can injure a finger if you hold it wrong.
The DA, or hammer in SA, can be tough for weaker hands.

A 38 special is a good choice for cc, but a Taurus 22mag 8-shot is both powerful
and small. 22wmr fmj weaker ammo is available to cut noise and side blast.

I have two Kel-Tec P-32's, which are effective compared to the P3AT for
various ballistic reasons, using S&B 32 fmj.
But it took so much grief, work, and time to make them reliable
that I cannot recommend either a Kel-Tec P-32, nor their P3AT.

Also, a laser is good; it might avoid the need to fire if a perp sees a beam.
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"Trigger Creep" in Single Action Defense Guns

Main Point: If you partially pull a trigger against a sear, and release
the trigger, the sear might not return, and another pull
on the trigger could result in unsafe early detonation.
~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~
I think trigger "creep" is a misuse of the word. Maybe it should
be defined as movement of the trigger during constant pressure
on the trigger. But I will use the common meaning here:
Movement of a trigger after the sear is engaged and to the
point where the sear releases the spring force into either the
hammer/firing-pin, or into a striker-type firing pin, causing detonation.

(A sear is a mechanical catch that holds spring pressure until
the sear slips free, whether the sear contact is metal-to-metal friction,
or some roller bearing crossing a cam high-point in a big gun.)

On a typical single-action trigger, there is "slack" movement of
the trigger until it "grabs"; which is when the sear is engaged.
(striker-fired guns have a "sear", but it engages the striker-pin)
Double-actions use a sear, but in that long trigger travel, the first job
after initial "grab" is cocking the hammer (or drawing the striker)
and pushing a link to engage the sear. The sear then slips free to fire
the gun, often with some element of surprise as to when it will fire.
Trying to guess (or stage) the firing point in a double action is risky.

Once an SA trigger starts sear engagement, you know that you
must be prepared for discharge at any time, since the firing pin,
or striker is almost ready to be launched into the primer.

Some say creep in the SA trigger is a bad feature, but I want creep.
My trigger finger deforms under load, so the direct feedback
is the feeling in my fingertip and in my finger structures.
After reaching the sear grab point, I then want some trigger
sensation as indication of actual sear movement.

When I shoot a rifle at 100 yards when standing ("off-hand"),
I time the sway of the front sight, and I jerk the trigger just before
the desired sight picture is reached. Trying to squeeze a
trigger in that situation means fewer hits on target.

But when using a two-hand grip while standing with a handgun,
I want to squeeze the trigger if I have time. If there is a sensation
of trigger/sear movement past the initial sear engagement, it
helps me to know actually when the gun will fire.
(But if the trigger is a match-grade SA, maybe with a setting lever,
and maybe a pull rated at under 10 ounces, the creep is very small,
since any slip at the sear means the gun will fire.)

There is a downside to trigger creep that is not well known.
When a sear starts to slip (creep), the slip is not normally reversible,
and the sear might be on the verge of release to detonation.
So if you relax your trigger finger after starting into the "creep", but
then decide to resume squeezing, the trigger pull WILL BE SMALLER,
and detonation will be early.
If I have started to squeeze, and I back off, then I might reset the
hammer by backing off on the slide or the hammer. For a striker gun,
I might back off the slide, then bump it closed to get a "fresh trigger".

There are variations on single/double action, and hammer/striker,
which can complicate explanations, but ultimately they operate on
similar principles. Since double-action-only triggers are so awkward,
some of the better guns use a "preset" feature that shortens trigger
travel and trigger pull, while keeping an added safety factor compared
to single action. (something like a half-cocked condition)
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