Recommendations on Concealed Carry Guns.

What matters in concealed carry is reliability, easy use, size, and weight.
In 380, I can only suggest the Taurus 738, SIG 230, Bersa, and Rohrbaugh.
I would not choose 9x19 for common cc. It's much more power, with downsides.
For leo backup: 9x19 fmj (Rohrbaugh R9, Kahr PM9; not the unsafe Glocks.)

The Rohrbaugh R380 is $1200, but I might spend that, particularly if you don't want to correct problems or return a gun for service. It shoots; it's small; it's light.

The T738 is a good compromise. It shoots; it's small; it's light; for $400.
The Kahr PM9 if you can handle a 9x19 in a pocket gun (recoil; racking; noise).
The PK380 is for weaker hands, but it's still a work in progress.
It's bigger, but only 22oz loaded with 8 rounds. Anyone can rack it; under $400.
Since the 380 is not powerful, the PK380 longer barrel helps velocity/stability.

I use Federal 380 95gr fmj for more a bit more energy to penetrate coats, glass, bone, etc. Sig 230 is better than the Sig 232 for reliability.
A double/single action small revolver is the best for reliability, but they are wider and often heavier, and side blast can injure a finger if you hold it wrong.
The DA, or hammer in SA, can be tough for weaker hands.

A 38 special is a good choice for cc, but a Taurus 22mag 8-shot is both powerful
and small. 22wmr fmj weaker ammo is available to cut noise and side blast.

I have two Kel-Tec P-32's, which are effective compared to the P3AT for
various ballistic reasons, using S&B 32 fmj.
But it took so much grief, work, and time to make them reliable
that I cannot recommend either a Kel-Tec P-32, nor their P3AT.

Also, a laser is good; it might avoid the need to fire if a perp sees a beam.
.

"Trigger Creep" in Single Action Defense Guns

Main Point: If you partially pull a trigger against a sear, and release
the trigger, the sear might not return, and another pull
on the trigger could result in unsafe early detonation.
~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~
I think trigger "creep" is a misuse of the word. Maybe it should
be defined as movement of the trigger during constant pressure
on the trigger. But I will use the common meaning here:
Movement of a trigger after the sear is engaged and to the
point where the sear releases the spring force into either the
hammer/firing-pin, or into a striker-type firing pin, causing detonation.

(A sear is a mechanical catch that holds spring pressure until
the sear slips free, whether the sear contact is metal-to-metal friction,
or some roller bearing crossing a cam high-point in a big gun.)

On a typical single-action trigger, there is "slack" movement of
the trigger until it "grabs"; which is when the sear is engaged.
(striker-fired guns have a "sear", but it engages the striker-pin)
Double-actions use a sear, but in that long trigger travel, the first job
after initial "grab" is cocking the hammer (or drawing the striker)
and pushing a link to engage the sear. The sear then slips free to fire
the gun, often with some element of surprise as to when it will fire.
Trying to guess (or stage) the firing point in a double action is risky.

Once an SA trigger starts sear engagement, you know that you
must be prepared for discharge at any time, since the firing pin,
or striker is almost ready to be launched into the primer.

Some say creep in the SA trigger is a bad feature, but I want creep.
My trigger finger deforms under load, so the direct feedback
is the feeling in my fingertip and in my finger structures.
After reaching the sear grab point, I then want some trigger
sensation as indication of actual sear movement.

When I shoot a rifle at 100 yards when standing ("off-hand"),
I time the sway of the front sight, and I jerk the trigger just before
the desired sight picture is reached. Trying to squeeze a
trigger in that situation means fewer hits on target.

But when using a two-hand grip while standing with a handgun,
I want to squeeze the trigger if I have time. If there is a sensation
of trigger/sear movement past the initial sear engagement, it
helps me to know actually when the gun will fire.
(But if the trigger is a match-grade SA, maybe with a setting lever,
and maybe a pull rated at under 10 ounces, the creep is very small,
since any slip at the sear means the gun will fire.)

There is a downside to trigger creep that is not well known.
When a sear starts to slip (creep), the slip is not normally reversible,
and the sear might be on the verge of release to detonation.
So if you relax your trigger finger after starting into the "creep", but
then decide to resume squeezing, the trigger pull WILL BE SMALLER,
and detonation will be early.
If I have started to squeeze, and I back off, then I might reset the
hammer by backing off on the slide or the hammer. For a striker gun,
I might back off the slide, then bump it closed to get a "fresh trigger".

There are variations on single/double action, and hammer/striker,
which can complicate explanations, but ultimately they operate on
similar principles. Since double-action-only triggers are so awkward,
some of the better guns use a "preset" feature that shortens trigger
travel and trigger pull, while keeping an added safety factor compared
to single action. (something like a half-cocked condition)
.

Penetration of Automobile Glass.

You might be faced with the need to fire through

car door glass at a perp tying to take over your car.

Car door glass is much different from windshield glass.
The door has a single pane tempered and designed to
break into small pieces on heavy impact.

But to penetrate the laminated polymer-reinforced
double-pane windshield, you need at least 230ft-lb with

hard-point ammo, and more energy with soft points.

This means a 9x19mm must have a copper jacket point

fired from a barrel at least 3.5" long, and nearly
perpendicular to the windshield.

FBI automatics are now 357sig or similar power to deal

with windshields and doors (the bullet is their business).

Concealed-carry ammo is not for windshields, unless you

are willing to pack a 357, 40, or similar.  But lighter ammo

can be effective through car DOOR glass, since that glass

is designed to break into small pieces when struck hard.

The first shot will at least break the glass, with the second

shot having full effect on the perp.

If you fire a pocket gun from inside toward the front, reach

around the windshield.  I won't mention teflon or steel, but

those are available somewhere.  I was surprised that the info I

found is that teflon might increase velocity, and help penetration
of glass and metal, but not into ballistic vest materials.

Crude ballistic testing is usually too crude.

For small handguns, I see tests into gelatin, wet newsprint,
and water jugs covered with denim.  {I have not seen much
on ballistic clay.}     But these tests only compare loads,
and are not realistic simulations for self defense.

I use poplar wood 2" cylinders as an easy compromise, but ideally,
there should be a layer of leather, followed by something like a human
rib/sternum, followed by gel.
A layer of auto door glass would be a good addition at times.

The leather is easy, and 1/4 inch plywood might do for the bone.
Gelatin is good for soft tissue, but to avoid the fuss, wet newsprint
might do, or even saturated basswood (which might be difficult).

This really matters for pocket guns, which are marginal weapons.
I won't routinely carry a loaded gun that weighs a full pound, or is
much larger than a KT p-3at/Ruger LCP/Taurus TCP.
And If a hollow/soft point breaks up in leather/bone, the perp effect is poor.

Gel and newsprint tests indicate expansion for 32acp and 380 soft/hollow points.
But I would only trust full copper or steel jackets, with rounded-point, in these loads,
since they are more likely to survive the trip to damage vulnerable soft tissues.

A broken rib or arm does not stop a perp.
A broken femur/tibia might knock them down.
But punctured bronchi, nerve tissues, or large blood vessels ruin their plans.

The same might go for 22mag, but that's a better penetrator whatever the bullet.
Unless you carry 9x19+p, 357, 40, 45, or similar-power loads, fmj is more reliable.

If a test result firing at 90 degrees is marginal, then a 45 degree test will fail.
.

Why I Carry a P-32; BUT IT'S A PAIN TO CORRECT.

I've made an intensive study of pocketguns, including building a
piping rig to safely and quietly test penetration into poplar cylinders.
Spending 1200 bucks was not a barrier in choosing a daily carry;
but effectiveness, reliability, size, and weight were.

I settled on a CORRECTED Kel-Tec p-32, using only Sellier
or Geco fmj hardpoint, without laser, light, or real sights.
(I have no financial interest in Kel Tec; I've even been
banned from KTOG and KTRange for being too critical.)

CAUTION:  I DO NOT RECOMMEND THE P-32 FOR SOMEONE WHO DOES NOT HAVE THE TIME, SKILL, OR MONEY TO MAKE EXTENSIVE CORRECTIONS.  THE GUN IS RIGHT FOR ME, BUT THEY HAVE TOO MANY PROBLEMS AS DELIVERED, AND I DON'T THINK I WOULD BUY A THIRD P-32. 
I ALSO WOULD NOT TRY THE P3AT FOR THE SAME REASONS AND FOR OTHER CONSIDERATIONS.
IF I HAD TO CHOOSE ANOTHER POCKET GUN, IT MIGHT BE THE TAURUS TCP 380.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
A 9mm or 38spl is in the console; for when I'm near the van.
One secret is: a 32acp fmj S&B from the 2.7 barrel penetrates
poplar the same as the 380 fmj AmEagle from a 2.7 barrel. (I never use HP or flat-nose)

Also, the extra round with locking slide is important sometimes.
I would not compromise in recommending a carry for my wife,
but she took my advice, and carries a corrected p-32.

I would pay for a better carry compromise, accounting for all
factors; but a small 380, .38, or 9mm is not worth the offsets
for personal daily carry. (I would not carry less than a 2.5" barrel.)

I have to spend 40 hours to correct a new p32, and that time is worth
600 bucks to me, so I'm actually paying 900.  When KT, Kahr, Sig,
or Rohr make a reliable 9mm with a 2.5+" barrel, 5.3"x.88"x3.8"
under a pound loaded, I'll buy.
(A 380 from a short barrel has stability issues, and it must hit point
first to get past a coat and a rib and several inches of soft tissue.)

If I have to use the p32, and it doesn't do the job, I will have brief
second thoughts, but then recalling the factors in the choice I made.
(Buying a used vehicle includes safety choices too.)
[March 3: A Kel-Tec rep at the Shot Show said he chooses the p32 over
the P3AT; for the slide lock, extra round, and nearly the same effect.

(BTW, Moro warriors of the Philippines were usually Muslim, carried
wooden shields, and were happy to die in jihad, since paradise awaited.
The .38special revolvers were too wimpy for them.
Not the usual perp on the streets of NY (unless on PCP).
.

Effective Shots From True Pocket Guns

[ revised on Mar 21 ]

Sometimes most shots in a sudden handgun fight are misses, or grazing hits.
Hits might first pass through a heavy coat, bone, or safety glass, sometimes
at shallow angles, before causing effective soft-tissue penetration, which is
more important than expansion, fragmentation, or yaw. [per FBI]
A second effective hit on a perp is often necessary; maybe within 2 seconds;
and likewise for any second perp.  Sometimes you might want to penetrate
laminated auto door glass.  (Windshield penetration is for cops while on duty.)

The drag coefficient of a stable bullet in air is an indicator of penetration potential
through solids.  A narrow stable full-jacket bullet has low drag in air, and is more
efficient in penetrating obstructions. They must then have remaining energy to
penetrate soft-tissue at least 5".

Expanding bullets limit soft tissue penetration, and can even prevent penetration.
Yaw (key-holing) reduces energy and penetration, and is no "advantage" unless
there are no obstructions and the target is close. (test those short-barrel guns)


Expanding or flat-nose bullets are not effective from short barrels ( < 2.5")
for 22lr, 32acp, 380acp, and other loads under 180 ftlb (from the actual barrel).

I would never use anything but FMJ in a low-energy pocket gun. (no flat nose)
A 9mm or 357 are different, but they tend to be too heavy and too large.
Maybe a 22wmr from a 4" barrel is good enough for flat/soft points.
(I will test in poplar cylinders someday, using 50gr subsonics if I can get them)

The 25acp should not be chosen for personal defense; it's just too weak through
leather and bone.  A 22lr-rn-hv can be effective if fired from a semi-auto barrel
that is least a 3" long, based on my tests on poplar wood.
           
             -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -
In 380 bullets, the center of pressure during yaw (pressure from air, leather, bone)
is substantially closer to the center of gravity than for the 32acp.
For a given barrel length, the 380 is less stable through all media, and a
short barrel increases this relative instability.

I saw a thread about frequent keyholing from a popular "high-end" pocket gun.
Their product site does not even reveal the barrel length. (which is 2.1").
.

My Carry for Routine Days

Kel-Tec P-32 (G2)  modified for reliability and function, and using S&B fmj.

      Other mods are attached to  https://sites.google.com/site/concealedgun/

Would prefer KT PF-9 or Kahr PM-9, but those are a bit bulky, and 9 is too much for wife.

(Will consider Taurus PT-738, .380 fmj, if it proves reliable in reports, but for me the 380
 pocket guns don't really beat a P-32 when balancing several factors, including noise.)

(I think a 22mag needs a 4" barrel to penetrate coat, bone, and 6" of soft tissue from 10 feet.)

.

Don't Try to Fix SW380 or SW9

(Updated April 2011)
Regarding the ill-fated Sigma compacts with the pinch-release mags . . .
There are other lines of various SW "Sigma" designs still produced;
I don't know about them, just the two models discontinued in 2001.

Around 1995, Smith introduced Sigma Compacts sw380/sw9m, mainly as backup
guns for law enforcement. .I hope LEO is rid of them by now, but they show
up in at least one list of approved backup/off-duty guns.
I hope there was no death or serious wound resulting from failures to fire.

They were cheap, small, and light (14oz empty), with no protruding features,
except the prominent front corners. They were striker guns, like Glock, and
the operation was too similar; they lost a patent suit by Glock.

I bought a used SW380 at a gun show, knowing little except that it was small,
light, easy to rack for my wife, and a name brand. .It has been a major waste
of time to try to make it work, and it's another serious blot on any reputation
Smith still has. [see "The Dark Side of Smith & Wesson" by Chuck Hawks,
Dec 2008. www.chuckhawks.com/smith-wesson_dark.htm]

When I installed a "lighter" Wolf target spring, it was much longer than
the spring that was in my used sw380. This is part of the light-strike problem.
But even with the Wolf spring, and extensive careful work, it will not fire
more than three in six rounds, even after shaving firing pin surfaces that
might drag on the interlock spool, and even after testing without the spool.

I dealt with every conceivable factor in battery, mechanisms, slam-fire block,
and alignments; and I took material off a dozen surfaces, even the impact nose.
I even used a punch to deform a cartridge centering wall to better align primers
with the firing pin.

Smith now has the 380 manual on their website, but they still want you to send
the gun in for striker part replacement. The striker is very light, so if the
assembly is not right, the impact is light. I think the problem is that the
striker, which combines a hammer and firing pin function, is too light, even
without and dirt, grease, or excess drag.

The slide is cast or MIM soft alloy, with a steel breach face cast or pressed
into the soft slide. What I read is that some have been good guns, and others
junk, like mine.
I would not pay ten cents for another one, since it might not fire when needed.
And I am very reluctant to buy another used gun at a gun show, or any Smith.
.

Two Current S&W Recalls.

-- Recent SW 22A pistols UBW0000-UBW9999 and UBY0000-UBY4104 are
being recalled for insufficient headspace, which can result in unintended discharge.
(as posted at the Smith website)

--The Atlanta PD is currently having a trigger fix done on 1,700 of their SW-MP40's.
www.myfoxatlanta.com/dpp/news/Atlanta_Police_Guns_Recalled_by_Maker_060909
.

Non-Warranty and The Smell Test

It seems gun makers want to discourage injured gun users from consulting an attorney.
An attorney would know that the feeble attempts in the gun manuals to avoid
liability would not survive common or statutory law (even unique law in Louisiana).
The famous case of the sw460 injury proceeds. Trial of Brown v Smith & Wesson
is scheduled for Sept 28, 2009 in Arkansas Western District Federal Court.
TO: Images on cylinder blast gap.
TO: revolver slowmo
TO: revolver test
TO: Smith 44 test
TO: Mythbusters Episode-122 "…can cause your fingers to be blown off …"


This wording is not pro-customer, and not very "Ruger".
(Maybe no big deal unless the heat treat was goofed up.)

Taurus is not much better ....

.

Revolvers are Reliable, but . . . WATCH OUT ! !

TO : Video of SW-29 44mag revolver at night

Semi-auto pistols malfunction.
Revolvers rarely fail.

Despite HAZARDS raised below:
The carry gun that I recommend
for reliable/ready defense, for the
average user, is a 22 magnum
revolver (full-jacket ammo to avoid
lead "spitting" from the cylinder gap,
and for penetration of barriers).

For always-carry, I might choose:
NAA-HG-M 22magnum.(7oz)
For larger carry, I might choose:
Taurus 941B2UL. (19oz)

……… First ..C A U T I O N
There is an important danger from revolvers that few talk about. .Except for
special revolvers, there's a gap between the front of the cylinder and the barrel.
This allows part of the detonation to escape around the front of the cylinder.
Such side blast includes flame, lead, grit, and gases; and this can get worse with use !

There is a natural temptation to place the free hand at the front of the trigger guard
to support the gun and steady the aim. .Fingers/hands can be BADLY injured !
I "resent" the lack of blast guards/gun-warnings, but producers aren't concerned enough !
TO Article on lawsuit against SW for negligence in design, indicators, warnings.
TO Video of a Smith 460 cannon. . . . count your fingers.
TO Ugly pic of one injury.
TO Another video of Smith 44 mag at night (Flash is tough to record, since the image
is sampled every .033 seconds from the ccd. You can now buy HD at .017 sec interval.)
One reason the danger is not more known is that you can't see it in full light.)

KEEP AWAY from the AREA AT THE FRONT OF THE CYLINDER !.
Lead/powder grit, gases, and fire WILL BURST FROM THAT GAP

(so fast that it takes slow-mo or darkness to see it)

(A shooter on youtube covers that area with paper to test how bad it is on his guns.)

Gap comment from http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_10_54/ai_n28027458/
"… .002" is too tight ... lead particles and carbon residue, and the cylinder will
bind against the barrel. … gaps in excess of .006" are too big, contributing
to excessive muzzle blast, lead spitting, and a significant loss of velocity."

From page 12 of a 20-page manual for Taurus single action revolvers:
"The release of excess gases and hot particles from that point are part of the normal
operation of revolvers, and pose no safety hazard to the shooter > if < the firearm is
held in a normal grip and fired at arm’s length." "Never allow other persons to stand
beside you where they might be struck by ejected particles or gases."

-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
A very short barrel tends to reduce side blast. Also, you can check the gap between
cylinder and barrel by backlighting the gap. Be sure to rotate the cylinder to all
positions to check the maximum gap. This is a known problem, even on new guns.

.....-- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
Revolvers tend to be heavier, wider, harder to reload, have more recoil,
and have triggers that can be tough to pull. But they give you at least five
shots when needed (if your fingers don't get in the way of "the gap").
Semi pistols are less reliable, and some are very unreliable.
www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=345373&page=12

If you have a single action option, with just a second to prepare, you can
be ready for an easy trigger pull by cocking the hammer.
This also improves accuracy, since the easy pull helps aiming. (If you don't fire,
then you must engage any hammer/pin safety, and/or rotate to a notch or empty
chamber, and/or carefully decock the hammer.)
There is usually no safety to remember, but many revolvers have devices that prevent
a strike to the hammer from causing discharge (hammer block, inertial firing pin,
recessed hammer, etc). .The top chamber can be left empty to avoid that risk.

…..... Second ..C A U T I O N

If a child finds a loaded revolver, there is a greater chance of a tragic result.
While a semi-auto magazine can be easily removed, and it is not necessary to
have a round in a chamber, a loaded revolver always has a round in a chamber.
Unloading is not so easy, and that also makes the gun less ready.

………- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you are not convinced of the reliable operation of a semiauto pistol, you are
"more ready" with a revolver, as long as you can accept side blast, a tougher
trigger, and cocking the hammer for single-action.
Some 38 revolvers are light and small enough. .But a 22mag (fmj) is powerful,
while lighter and smaller. (even a 17 magnum has good power if you can find one)

For me, the safety risks of revolvers keep me focused on semiauto pistols.
(for routine easy carry, I use just a self-corrected Keltec-32g2, with fmj/tmj euro)
(I will never again buy anything that is Smith & Wesson).

.

Eye and Ear Protection

My ears have had a "ringing" noise for nearly 40 years, mostly
from firing a machinegun without hearing protection.
It's "tinnitus", and it's too common in combat military, active and veteran.

The 7.62x51 ammo was loud, but even a 22 magnum handgun can cause this.
One girl at cc range qualification only had earplugs, and she had to walk out (wisely).

There are "ear valves" that are cheap insurance for those who need to hear
well until they fire a weapon. .If nothing is used for 10 or 20 shots, then
temporary partial deafness can interfere with any urgent situation underway.

At least ear plugs should be used in practice, and only if muffs are not available.
Even some muffs aren't good enough. .If you are firing 357, 40, 45, 9x19, or
similar, you might want to wear muffs over ear valves, or over ear plugs.
And if shooters next to you have loud guns, you will want both muffs and plugs.
(trust me on that; when your hair and shirt shake, ears beware)

Eye protection is mainly for an exploding gun; a result of barrel obstruction,
improper ammo, or gun defects .... but also for flying cases, sparks, and oil.
Shooting an ar15/m16 lefty often results in oil spray to the eyes, but it
happens even with semi pistols that have too much oil)
.

http://www.bradycenter.org/

Need for Background Checks on All Gun Sales

"A new Brady report makes a strong case for Brady
background checks on all gun sales in America,
including those at gun shows."
"Allowing dangerous people such as convicted felons
and domestic abusers to buy guns without Brady
background checks threatens the safety of our
families and communities."

"U.S. Senator Frank Lautenberg has introduced
legislation to close the gun show loophole that allows
people to buy guns at gun shows in most states
without passing a Brady criminal background check."
….

" In 2007, 181 officers died in the line of duty,
including 68 who were shot and killed with guns."
....

"The same weak gun laws that are enabling the supply to
Mexican criminals are supplying criminals in the U.S. as well."

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
There is an obscene loophole at gun shows. The problem is that
"private collectors" can in some states legally sell pocket guns or powerful
long-range guns with just a brief viewing of the buyer's driver's license.
Cash and carry ... no receipt ... no record of the transaction ...
no barrier for criminals and the mentally-injured.
.

Large Yaw is Not OK.

I've read opinions that short-range bullets which hit a target sideways,
or at some large angle, are not such a bad thing in personal defense.
But while a jacketed bullet can do more damage if it turns in soft tissues,
bullets that must pass through glass, bone, or leather before reaching soft tissue
should be close to nose-forward until that time. This is even more important
for a bullet intended to expand or fragment in soft tissue.

Testing indicates that a 32acp fired from a 2.8" barrel (2.1" rifled length)
will arrive nose first, then tumble in soft tissue, ending up pointed toward
the gun. The center of mass is a bit behind the center of pressure during flight,
but spin prevents tumbling. When spin fades, the center of mass can then
turn forward, reversing bullet direction at the end of penetration.

This path of a stable 32acp (fmj) is as effective as some expanding designs,
even moreso if there are barriers prior to entry into soft tissue.
Also, since the air drag on a small stable bullet is low, and the small nose
concentrates its energy, penetration tends to be better than expected.
(This is consistent with a ballistic armor display indicating that energetic,
wide, and blunt pistol bullets do not penetrate as much as would be expected.)

Concealed guns are very limited by their short barrels, starting with
reduced muzzle velocity. If the rifling twist it too high, energy and
initial stability are reduced, with more yaw at the muzzle, then
possibly serious aerodynamic effects on a wobbling overspun bullet.

But if the barrel twist is too low, the tendency of the center of pressure to
overcome the center of mass increases, and non symmetric forces are not
properly cancelled by spin. (Rifle bullets at long ranges are a wider story,
particularly because vertical drop is very important.)

When a flat-tail bullet separates from a barrel, it gets an unsupported final push
from the powder explosion, likely adding a bit to existing yaw.
It's normal for a bullet from a short barrel to have yaw up to 4 degrees at that point,
which grows if there is aerodynamic instability. To control this, I "gather" that pistol
barrel twist should be between 1-in-12 and 1-in-16, with rifled length 6 times bullet diameter.
(Subtract case length from the breachface-to-muzzle length to get the "rifled length".)

Some popular pistols do not meet these parameters, and I would not trust them
unless there was good evidence that the bullets traveled nearly nose-first to target.
You can check for excess yaw/wobble by firing into heavy cardboard or
light-color foam slabs at 5 to 10 yards. There will be a faint gray smudge
on the cardboard/foam (powder residue); this smudge should be fairly round.
If you can arrange it, use a piece of soft wood for the target, to check for yaw and penetration.
.